Are you planning on putting a stone path in your lawn or garden? If so, you've got a great opportunity for some great garden design. Don't just plunk those stones atop your sod! There are many low-growing perennial plants that are just great between stones in a path, and will add more personality to your garden than mere grass.

To help you select the best ground cover, consider:

• The amount of sunlight reaching your path (full sun, partial shade, full shade), because different plants thrive under different conditions.
• The amount of traffic the plants will need to endure. Light traffic means the plants will be stepped on once or twice a week. Moderate traffic is once a day. And heavy traffic is similar to walking on your lawn several times a day.
• The type of soil (poor or rich) and moisture conditions (wet or dry).
• Appearance: plant height, texture and color. If the path is heavily traveled, or people will be running on it, keep the plant height low, or use a plant that bends easily (you don't want people tripping over the plants).

Improve the growing conditions when you carve out the soil for your new stone path. It's difficult to grow anything in a trampled area. The soil gets so compacted that roots cannot deliver water and nutrients to the plant. Add good drainage as well as a layer of topsoil at least 1 in. deep around the stones so your ground cover can thrive.

Finally, help your new ground cover prosper with a weekly soaking (the plants need to stay moist) and a weekly hand weeding. And if you'd like to keep the plants short between the stones, consider plants that tolerate mowing, such as thyme and ajuga.

By Tamara Galbraith

Summer's in full swing, and your previously glorious flowers are starting to look a little ragged around the edges.

Many plants will benefit--and even rebloom--after a mid-summer session of "deadheading," that is, removing spent flowers and/or stems to promote new growth.

Here's a quick guide of deadheading techniques for different types of flowers:

Pinch off individual dead flowers on balloonflower, bellflower, daylily, delphinium, foxglove, hibiscus, hollyhock. (Also included: some irises that will rebloom in the fall, depending on the variety.)

Do an overall snip of dead blooms (about 2" below the flower) on blanketflower, columbine, globe thistle, goldenrod, geranium, Jacob's ladder, salvia, coreopsis/tickseed.

Cut the entire spent flower stem off to either a side shoot or to the plant's base on baby's breath, bleeding heart, cardinal flower, catmint, coral bells, foamflower, gaura, Jupiter's beard, lavender, lupine, mullein, painted daisy, pincushion flower, coneflower, Shasta daisy, speedwell, spiderwort, Stoke's aster.

(Listening to The Grateful Dead while deadheading is, of course, optional.)

Lawn rust is a common lawn fungus disease that tends to leave an orange cast over the entire lawn. A close-up examination will show orange spores on most of the individual grass blades, with the rust coming off easily on your fingers. Lawn rust is most prevalent when you have a combination of warm and humid weather.

While not considered a serious lawn disease by itself, rust, if left alone, can weaken your lawn and make it vulnerable to attacks from more serious diseases in addition to making it look bad. Fortunately lawn rust is fairly easy to get rid of through a combination of cultural and chemical controls.

First apply a granulated lawn fungicide to your grass. Then, make sure your lawn is fed every two months during summer with a balanced lawn food. Keep your mower blades on a higher setting and always water your lawn between 4:00 a.m. and 8:00 a.m. to reduce evaporation and wet blades that can attract disease. In addition, bag your lawn clippings until the disease has been controlled and cleared up.

Follow these simple instructions and you should have your lawn looking healthy and beautiful in no time!

How do I get rid of dog urine spots in my lawn?

Answer:
Hmm...let's see...do you own a dog? (More on that later.)

First, check to see if the damage spots are entirely dead. Pull on some of the damaged grass to see if it comes up completely or if it bends. If it's still pliable, it might recover. If it is dry and cracking like straw, then you might have to reseed that area with a seed patch.

Some studies which have been done indicate that the damage is mostly caused by a nitrogen overdose (think fertilizer burn). So, if you see a/your dog urinating on your lawn the most effective way to prevent urine damage is to water heavily to dilute the urine in the area as soon as possible after the dreaded act.

There are a number of animal repellents on the market, which work with varying degrees of success. Apply to existing spots and the perimeter of the lawn, especially in a front yard setting.

Now back to our first question. If the dog belongs to an inconsiderate neighbor who has ignored your pleas for consideration, we recommend a Super Soaker water gun. Simply aim for the perpetrator's head. Since we don't advocate attacking innocent animals, please consider the owner the perpetrator. If the dog is your own, perhaps you could replace the lawn with bark or concrete. (Ok, we're kidding in all of this paragraph--but we do personally understand the problem.)