Holiday cacti are not hard to take care of, if you remember not to overwater them; getting them to bloom on time is a bit more complex. Here are some tips:

In order for these plants to form flower buds for holiday blooms, they need extended darkness for at least four weeks.

Place the plant in a dark room or keep covered (under a box or bag works fine) for at least 12 hours a day.

When buds appear (usually around four weeks), the darkening schedule can stop.

As the buds get larger, move the plant to where it will be for the holiday, avoiding extreme temperature or lighting changes.

Continue to water and feed while the plant is budding and blooming. Water only when the soil is completely dry - these plants do not like soggy roots.

Without good soil, plants won't thrive. The plant roots support the top, absorb and transport water and nutrients. They also need air. Healthy roots grow healthy plants!

Soil contains particles (minerals), water, air, and organic matter (living and dead). A good balance of these will make a good soil for your plants. Without getting into a technical discussion, if you take about 50% amendment material (Gardner & Bloome Planting Mix is one of our favorites) mixing it in well (as if you were making a cake), your soil should be fine. Clay soil tends to be hard, sandy tends to be loose — both types will benefit. Always mix in your amendments (no layers) or you will have watering problems later. Caution: do not add sand to adobe (clay) soil — you will be making bricks!

If your gardening budget is limited, invest in amending your soil. A small plant in good soil will outgrow a large plant in poor soil!

Mix amendment into the top 2 inches for small plants...Let's get planting!

We'll use the example of small plants such as annuals and perennials. The same rule applies for most plants (examples of exceptions would be tomatoes and clematis).

• Don't bury deeper than it is already growing; the soil level should end up the same as it is in the nursery container. (That is, do not dig a deeper hole and bury the stem.)
• Always water your plant first; gently remove from the container by pushing up from the bottom.
• Check the roots. If they are matted or growing in circles, gently spread them so they will grow down and out (exceptions are azaleas, camellias, and bougainvilleas).
• Dig your hole (remember, no deeper than it is already growing!), place the plant in the hole, and gently fill in soil around it. Water again gently; we're working with nature to nurture our gardens. Think of a gentle rain — not a downpour.
• How often to water depends on your conditions. Small plants should be checked daily at first. Keep soil moist, not soggy, until established (when new leaves form and it appears to be growing).
• That's it! So dig in and enjoy! Remember — how do you know it won't grow if you don't plant it?

To Review:
-Amend your soil
-Water plants before planting
-Dig proper size hole, don't plant too deep
-Keep moist

We will talk about fertilizing next month (with good soil your plants won't need as much supplemental feeding!)

Getting to Know Garden Terms
Amendment: organic material used to improve soil aeration and water-holding capacities (improves clay soil and also sandy soil).

Rootbound: condition when plant roots become entangled or encircled while in a container. Gently spread before planting.

A few reminders for this time of year.

• Lots of water for everything, especially container plants.
• Camellias that do not receive enough water in warmer weather will drop their flower buds later.
• Don't cut lawns too short. Raise the mower height a little. Cut on the high side so crown and root area are shaded and kept cooler.
• Hold off on fertilizing lawns until the weather is cooler.
• And don't forget water for yourself. Wear loose clothing and don't forget a hat and sunscreen.
• Continue to give roses lots of water until weather cools more. You can trim them back so the roots don't have to work so hard. It's very important to water well before and after fertilizing. Recently fed roses can burn if not watered properly in warm weather.
• Mulching will also help keep the soil cooler (and warmer as the weather cools).

There's plenty to do in the garden at this time of year.

Continue to water.
Trees may be showing signs of salt burn (brown tips on leaves) due to lack of deep watering.

To water deeply: Lay your garden hose about 18' from the trunk, turn on hose so it just dribbles out — as if someone didn't turn it off tightly. Let it run for several hours, or all night. This will 'cleanse' the soil of accumulated salts and give a deep soak. This is also helpful for newly planted trees — to soak deeply into the root ball.

A lot of bugs are busy now!
Continue to hose off plants — keep them clean! Watch for Giant Whitefly (look for fuzz on the back of leaves) and aphids. Insect populations tend to 'peak' during hot weather. It will get better as the weather cools! If you have to, use an insecticide such as Ultra Fine.

Get rid of those weeds!
So... maybe the weeds have already taken over. Don't give up! Remove them now or they will be twice as bad in the spring. Patches of bare soil invite weeds, so plant a cover crop that you can work back into the soil in early spring, or cover the bare soil with mulch.

Fall is a great time to plant shrubs and trees.
They won't have to put energy into flowers or fruits, and can devote their resources to growing healthy root systems. As long as the soil is around 40 degrees or above, roots will continue to grow.