Peruvian lilies (alstroemerias) are members of the lily family whose azalea-like blossoms and many virtues have captivated the hearts of local gardeners in recent years. The plants are considerably drought resistant, the blooms have sturdy stems, and their cut flowers last two weeks. The craze for alstroemerias began when a photograph of the Berkeley Botanical Gardens' massive display of peach, orange and gold ligtu hybrids was published on the cover of Sunset magazine. But ligtu hybrids have some drawbacks; it takes at least three years to get them going, and once established they're almost impossible to eradicate or transplant. Their tall flowers make a magnificent display, but they do so only once a year in June and July. Alstroemeria seeds are widely available though difficult to germinate. You can order the plants of ligtu hybrids from mail order houses and online.

The late Fred Meyer worked for many years to improve a group of complex hybrids first developed in Europe for florist use. While many in this series are too tall and rangy for most landscapes, some of his later selections were quite stocky and compact, generally growing 2-4' tall in full exposure. All have attractive, shiny leaves and large flower clusters. 'Rachel,' one of the few selections named for distribution, is a short, profusely clumping plant with flowers verging on violet. Others are designated by their predominant colors, as 'Meyer's White,' 'Meyer's Red,' and 'Meyer's Rose.' They proved remarkably hardy, recovering quickly after exposure to 10-15° temperatures. The Meyer hybrids are also more heat resistant, easier to grow, and less invasive than the ligtu types. They bloom longer, and can be transplanted, divided, or moved in fall. They come in many shades of white, lavender, maroon, rose, and pink with stems ranging in height from 1 1/2 feet to 2 1/2 feet.

Since that time other hybridizers have done very well crossing their own strains of alstroemeria, creating hybrids that are shorter, more compact, or taller with stronger stems, and provide a wider range of colors, including tricolor combinations or beautiful solids, as well as increased cold-hardiness.

If you let them go dry in summer they won't die, though they will stop blooming, but if you water, feed, and deadhead them regularly many of them will bloom on.

Plant them in fall in loose, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter worked in. After a few years divide and transplant the clumps, handling the tubers gently to preserve their delicate roots. After the flowers fade, remove each spent stalk by giving it a sharp tug. By pulling off the stems singly you remove them cleanly and safely from the tubers, and this stimulates the plant to produce more bloom spikes. Follow up each wave of bloom with an application of complete fertilizer, and water it thoroughly into the ground.

Plants in containers often suffer at this time of year. Water them frequently. (A drip system can save time plus all the water that's wasted when you go from plant to plant with a hose.) In very hot weather, containers often dry out almost as soon as they're watered. It's not only the heat; dry air literally pulls moisture out of the soil right through the sides of terra-cotta pots.

Terra-cotta containers add charm to gardens and patios, but unfortunately for aesthetics most plants actually grow better in plastic. The idea that plants are helped by a pot that "breathes" is a mistaken one. The soil mix itself should breathe. It should be light and airy, which can be accomplished by adding perlite or sponge rock. In containers that breathe, roots follow the water as it escapes through the sides of the pot. They form a solid mat that clings to the inside of the pot, drying out daily and causing the plant to wilt. When plants are grown in plastic, roots tend to form more evenly throughout the mix. Eventually they congregate at the bottom and along the sides, but by then it's time to re-pot the plant to the next size.

Before planting in porous containers, seal the insides with a double coat of black waterproofing tar to help prevent moisture from escaping. Alternatively, try double-potting. Just put the plastic pot inside one of the more attractive pots. (If you want to dress things up a little more you can hide the grow pot and soil by putting a layer of dried Spanish moss or bark chips on top of the soil at the base of the plant).

The right tree in the right place does more than provide aesthetic value to your property - it can increase the value of your home, keep it cooler during the summer, and shield it from the wind so it will stay warmer in the winter.

The wrong tree can cause all kinds of problems, such as needing frequent expensive pruning or causing a safety hazard. That's why it's so important to select the right tree. Be sure to consult with your local nurseryman and be clear about what purpose you would like your new tree to serve - as a smaller accent tree or a large landscape tree, for sun or for shade, next to a sidewalk or in a large backyard... and so on.

With a little extra care, your new trees can be planted now to get a head start on next year.